Sealcoating Saint Paul Call (651) 321-9442
Glossy rubberized crack filler crosses an old, stony driveway in dappled shade leading back to a small cream garage under tall trees

Sealcoating Saint Paul

(651) 321-9442

Free quotes for crack filling in Saint Paul, MN.

Crack Filling in Saint Paul, MN

Crack filling means sealing open cracks with hot-pour rubberized material so water cannot run through the pavement into the base, and in Saint Paul it matters because the thaw, not the deep cold, does the damage. The airport normals show nearly 18 freeze-thaw days in an average March and about 15 in November, against only about 8 in January, when the pavement mostly stays frozen. In those shoulder months meltwater sits in every open crack by afternoon and freezes again overnight. Filling is cheap next to what it prevents, and it has to happen before any driveway sealcoating, because sealer is far too thin to bridge a real crack.

Typical Saint Paul price

$1 - $3 per linear ft; about $100 - $400 for a typical driveway · full pricing guide

The material is the point. Hot-pour crack sealant is a rubberized asphalt heated in a kettle and wanded or poured into a clean, dry crack, where it cools into a flexible band that stretches as the pavement contracts in January and squeezes as it expands in July. Cold-pour products from a jug or tube are easier to handle and suit hairlines, but on wide, moving cracks they generally do not last as long. Whatever the product, the crack has to be blown clean first, since filler poured over sand and dust peels out by spring.

Some crews rout before filling, cutting a clean reservoir along the crack so the filler has a uniform depth and two solid walls to grip. Roseville's street crews do exactly that each year on their mill-and-overlay streets, opening a three-quarter-inch by three-quarter-inch groove, blowing it clean and filling it. On a driveway, routing earns its cost on long, straight cracks and on the seam along a garage slab; across a web of small cracks it mostly adds labor.

The ground under a crack decides what the water does next. Much of Saint Paul sits on outwash soils the USDA rates somewhat excessively or excessively drained, so water passing through a crack tends to keep going down through the base. Where a pad sits on the silty Waukegan cap, or on old fill, it lingers, and silt is the kind of soil that heaves when it freezes. Either way the base is weakest while it thaws, which is exactly when the most water is getting in. Crack repair keeps that water on top of the pavement, where it can run off.

Filled cracks are not permanent. Rubberized filler weathers, pulls away from one wall and gets nicked by blades, so a well-kept drive gets a walk-around every spring and touch-ups wherever the band has split. Prices usually run per linear foot, with a minimum charge on small jobs; the cost page lists the observed range and explains how minimums affect a short alley pad.

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Cracks worth filling on a Saint Paul pad

Walk the pavement after the spring sweep, when the sand is off it and the cracks are easy to see in low sun.

  • Any crack wide enough to take the edge of a coin
  • A dark, open seam where the asphalt meets the garage slab
  • Cracks along the alley edge with grass or weeds growing out of them
  • Cracks with a raised or sunken lip on either side
  • Old filler bands that have split or pulled away from one wall

Filling these each spring is the least costly crack repair there is. Left for two or three winters, the same cracks tend to turn into patching jobs.

Fill it, patch it, or leave it for the sealer

Not every line in the pavement calls for the same response.

Leave it for the sealer

Hairline cracks narrower than about a quarter inch, with solid pavement on both sides. The sealer coats bridge these without separate work.

Fill with hot-pour

Single cracks a quarter inch and wider, the garage-slab seam and cracks along the alley edge. Clean and dry the crack, fill it flush or slightly below the surface, then seal the pad once the filler has set.

Patch instead

Cracks joined into a web of small plates, known as alligator cracking, mean the base below has failed. Filling each line is wasted effort; the section needs cutting out and rebuilding with new base and hot mix.

Questions

Crack Filling FAQs

How wide does a crack need to be before it gets filled?

A common rule is anything wider than about a quarter inch, or wide enough to slip the edge of a coin into. Hairlines narrower than that are bridged by the sealer coats. The exception is a crack of any width along the garage slab or the alley edge, because those seams tend to open and close more than cracks in the middle of the pad and they collect more water. On many alley pads, those two seams are the only cracks worth filling in a given year.

Can cracks be filled in October?

Yes, more easily than a pad can be sealed. Hot-pour filler needs a clean, dry crack more than it needs warm nights, and October at MSP still averages about 23 days with highs of 50 or warmer. The practical limit is moisture: fall rain and frost leave cracks damp in the morning, and filler over a wet crack does not bond. Filling in fall and sealing the following June is a sensible split for a pad that missed the summer.

Why did last year's filler sink down into the crack?

Usually because the crack was deep and the filler went in all at once, so it settled as it cooled, or because the crack kept widening through the winter and stretched the band thin. On deep cracks, crews often push a backer rod in first and then fill to just below the surface. A band that has sunk but still grips both walls is doing its job; one that has pulled away on a side needs cleaning and a top-up.

Free Crack Filling Quote — Saint Paul

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